Ever wondered about those sturdy leather leg coverings you see cowboys wearing? Well, you’ve come to the right place. When it comes to cowboy gear, nothing says “authentic western” quite like a sturdy pair of chaps. Whether you’re riding the open range, working cattle, or just looking to add a bit of cowboy flair to your wardrobe, western chaps are both practical and iconic.
In this guide, we’ll explore the different styles, uses, and rich history behind these essential pieces of cowboy equipment.
The History of Western Chaps
Originally called armas, meaning “weapons”, they were two large pieces of cowhide that were used as a sort of protective apron. Attached to the horn of the rider’s stock saddle, they were spread across both the horse’s chest and the rider’s legs. From this early and rather cumbersome design came modifications that placed the garment entirely onto the rider. Then came style variations adapted by the vaqueros of Early California and Northern Mexico. Later, the cowboys of Texas and the American West refined the protective garments into something with both cowboy purpose and pure buckaroo style.
Not just relegated to cowboys, there is evidence that certain design features may derive from the mountain men of the Rocky Mountains, the Appalachians, and the Pacific Northwest, who likely copied them from the leggings worn by Native Americans. Over time, different styles developed to fit local climates, terrain and hazards. Designs were also modified for purely stylistic and decorative purposes.
The time of actual appearance of this gear on the American cowboy is uncertain. But by the late 1870s, most Texas cowboys wore them as the cattle industry moved north. In fact, by 1884, the Dictionary of American Regional English first notes use of the word in Wyoming, although spelled then as “schaps.”
And, like many other bits of cowboy gear, the name is a shortened version of a Spanish word. In this case the word chaparreras, so named after the chaparral (you know, that thick, thorny, low brush?) from which they were designed to protect the legs while riding horseback. Like much of western horse culture, the origin of chaparreras was from that part of New Spain that later became Mexico. Of course, it’s since been assimilated into cowboy culture of the American West ever since.
What are Chaps Used For?
In the modern world, chaps are worn for both practical work purposes and for exhibition or show use. Modern day chaps are sturdy coverings for the legs consisting of two leggings and a belt. They are buckled on over jeans with the chaps’ integrated belt. But unlike trousers, chaps have no seat. It’s this fact that makes me giggle whenever I hear the oft-used term, “ass-less chaps.” You see, all chaps are, umm, well, you get the idea.
Chaps are designed to provide protection for the legs. As such, they’re usually made of leather or a durable leather-like material. Cowhide, with both the smooth, tanned side out, or the rougher underside (called, the “rough out” side) exposed is the most popular and commonly used material. But, like most else of the cowboy class, there are as many different variations in style, design and construction as the mind can imagine.
Your Definitive Guide to Chap Styles
So, you wanna know a bit more about the different types of chaps you may see? Read on my friend.
Shotgun
Shotgun chaps, sometimes called “stovepipes,” were so named because the legs are straight and narrow. These were the earliest designs used by Texas cowboys, and were in wide use by the late 1870s. Each leg is cut from a single piece of leather. Now, the fit of stovepipes is snug, wrapping completely around your leg.
Modern shotgun chaps have full-length zippers running along the outside of each leg from the thigh to just above the ankle. In many cases, that zipper runs the entire length of the leg. The edge of each legging is usually fringed. Additionally, the bottom is sometimes cut with an arch or flare that allows a smooth fit over the arch of a boot.
Shotguns do not flap around the way the batwing design can. They’re also better at trapping body heat, an advantage if you work in windy, snowy or cold conditions.
Shotgun chaps are more common on the ranches of the northwest, the Rocky Mountains, and northern plains states, as well as in Canada. They are also the design most commonly seen in horse show competition for western riders. If you are watching a reining competition or a western equitation show, you’re probably seeing a lot of shotgun chaps.
Batwing
Batwing chaps are cut wide with a flare at the bottom. Generally made of leather with the smooth side out, they have only two or three fasteners around the thigh. This allows you great freedom of movement for your lower leg. This is helpful when riding very actively, and makes it easier to mount your horse. The design of this style of chaps also provides more air circulation and is somewhat cooler for hot-weather wear.
So, if you’re on a ranch in Texas or other parts of the Southwest, these are likely what you’ll see. Batwing chaps are also often seen on rodeo contestants, particularly those who ride the glorious bucking stock of bulls and broncs.
They were a later design, developed after the end of the open range. Now, by definition, the chaps that rodeo contestants wear are considered batwing chaps. But most contestants I know do not refer to them as such. They are simply “rodeo chaps.” You’ll notice a few design differences between working ranch batwing chaps and rodeo chaps. Rodeo chaps are usually more colorful and decorated, since ranch cowboys prefer toughness over style. Rodeo chaps have long flowing fringe that can be the same or a different color from the main body. Similarly, the batwing chaps worn on ranches may be customized. You’ll see a brand or initials and some floral tooling, but typically they do not have fringe.
Chinks
Chinks are half-length chaps that stop two to four inches below the knee. They have a very long fringe at the bottom and along the sides. And since they are usually fringed along the outside edge and bottom, their length can appear up to four inches longer. The leg shape falls somewhere between batwings and shotguns. And each leg typically has only two fasteners, placed high on the thigh.
If you’re looking for chaps that are cool to wear (both figuratively and literally) with a design that is suitable for very warm climates, chinks are for you. They are occasionally called “half-chaps” and likely borrowed from the word armitas. Chinks are most often seen on cowboys in the Southwestern and Pacific states, most notably on those who follow the California vaquero or “buckaroo” tradition.
Armitas
Armitas are an early style of chaps. Developed by the Spanish in colonial Mexico, they became associated with the “buckaroos” or vaqueros of the Great Basin region of what is now the United States. They are short leggings with completely closed legs that have to be put on like pants. Built of deer, elk, or cowhide, they are usually a bit longer than chinks. But, they still stop above the top of the boot. Armitas are punchy, no doubt about it, with fringe on the sides and on the bottom to reach the boot tops, and attached by a fringed belt. If you wear armitas, it’s probably because your daddy wore them, and his daddy before him.
Farrier’s Apron
A farrier’s apron is a specialized style of chinks without fringe, also known as “horse shoeing chaps.” They protect the upper legs of farriers from getting scratched or cut up in the process of shoeing or otherwise treating the hooves of horses. Some designs have a breakaway front for safety while working. Farrier’s aprons are also sometimes used by ranch hands when stacking hay to reduce wear on clothing.
Woolies
From a style perspective, one of my personal favorites are woolies. A variation on shotgun chaps, woolies are made with fleece or hair-on cowhide (often angora) and are lined with canvas on the inside. They are the warmest chaps and have long been linked to the cowboys of the northern plains and Rocky Mountains. They are thought to have appeared on the Great Plains around 1887. And, they became a favorite of cowboys, if for no other reason than striking a dashing pose in an early daguerreotype.
Zamorros
Zamorros somewhat resemble batwing chaps, in that the leggings are closely fitted at the thigh and flare out below the knee. But, unlike batwings, the leggings extend far below the boot with a distinctive triangular flare. Zamorros are commonly made of cowhide, either plain-tanned leather or hair-on hides. They are popular with aficionados of the Paso Fino horse breed and are derived from styles seen in Puerto Rico and Colombia. Historically, the word zamorros referred to a basic shotgun-like style of either smooth or hair-on chaps worn by Colombian riders.
How to Pronounce “Chaps” in Western Gear
One last matter I should touch on related to chaps is exactly how you pronounce the blasted things! With nearly as much consternation as the great debate over the relationship between chili and beans, the correct elocution of these protective leather garments worn on the legs continues to confound cowboys and city folk alike. There are two main camps. Those who pronounce a hard “ch” as in the word “cheese” and those who, like me, prefer the cowboy elegance of referring to my leggings as “schaps.”
Truth be told, either way is permissible, of course, because cowboys don’t judge others. But for me, “schaps” just sounds cool. It sounds nostalgic. And, it rekindles romantic notions of the Old West. Of course, you may be the sort to steer clear of such controversy. If so, you might refer to them as “leggin’s” and marvel at the approving nods from the old timers.
“The world needs less apps, and more chaps.”
– Modern Cowboy Wisdom
Whatever you call ’em, and whichever style suits best your requirements, your sole bit of unrequested advice is to invest in a good pair of chaps, well-built and customized for you. Yes, you’ll spend a bit of hard-earned money. But I believe there are some things that are worth the expense. For me, those things are a good 20X felt hat, a comfortable saddle that fits, and a sturdy pair of chaps.
How do you know you’ve got the right pair for you? The first time you put yours on, the words “now, git along little doggie” come out of your mouth!
Until next time, happy trails! —☆
2 comments
Great article thanks
Thank you for reading it Ron.
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